Saturday, November 11, 2006


Cabo Polonio is wild: atlantic waves crash over rocks and sea lions lounging at the base of a defiant lighthouse. The wrecked remains of 16th century ships lie just below the waters surface. The sun and wind are both strong, but since it is a cape, one of the beaches was always sheltered. From the point, we could walk three hours in either direction down beaches empty but for the shockingly numerous dead sea creatures. (We saw, on one afternoon's stroll, 6 sea lions in varying states of decomposition, 2 penguins, a bunch of birds, dozens of fish, and even a sea tortoise - taking its final breath as we sat with it.)

We spent a week sharing a sweet pink house with good people - paying cheaper rent in exchange for some work, which basically meant we cooked a meal a day for matias and laura, who themselves had just got back from 3 months traveling in Argentina (and surely enjoyed the fresh sprout salads, spanish rice, fresh eggs ala polonio, and the soaked flax seed dessert.)

The Uruguayan town itself is picturesque: sand dunes surrounding a green wetlands of tilting hand-built houses centered around the towering lighthouse. Animals and people run free in Polonio; especially now. Just emerging from a long cold isolated winter, there are none of the

hipster summer crowds who come in from montevideo and buenos aires. Artesans with dready children and solo recluses emerge into the sunny days to gather at el templao - the frontier-style general store, where you can buy anything: wine out of a giant cask, aging meats on hooks, home-made egg liquor, batteries, bread...

Since no cars are allowed in town, the streets are paths of sand through the tough grass and amiable dogs are pedestrians. Cabo polonio was beautiful, but ultimately exhausting and strange: a place where the horses are like dogs, running free and frolicking in packs; the dogs are like little boys, grinning and joining you for a beach walk; and the boys are like little men, gathered on the beach in earnest conversations.

One our way back to Buenos Aires, we spent a few days in Colonia, just across the Rio de la Plata from Argentina. It's a beautiful little town, cobbled streets and colonial architecture. Here's Tamara on the waterfront perfecting her hand stands.


At 2:22 PM, Blogger The General said...

Hey Paul and Tamera, JJ pointed me in the direction of your Blog. I've been reading it off and on while at work today, and its getting me excited for the trip that Sarah and I will be leaving on in a couple weeks.

I actually went to Colonia (and Iguazu too) a few years ago when traveling in that part of SA. I thought it was a great little town and a nice change of pace from Buenos Aires! Glad to see you enjoyed it too!

Take care and enjoy the rest of your journey!


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